Wine Review – Yves Culleron Syrah
The northern Rhône produces the world’s finest expression of the syrah grape. The famous districts include Côte-Rôtie (the “burnt or roasted hillside”), St.-Joseph, and Hermitage. These wines will put a dent in an AIG bonus. But there is good news: just west of the Rhône river, the region known as Collines Rhodaniennes also produces marvelous syrah. Because it is labeled ‘vin de pays’ (local wine), you can drink it without imposing debt on your grandchildren.
Yves Cuilleron Syrah 2007 Les Candives is a beautiful example. Mmr. Cuilleron makes very grand red wines in Côte-Rôtie. He also has vineyards close by in the granite hills of Collines Rhodaniennes. “Candives” is the local name for the syrah grape. This wine is restrained and smooth. It tastes of violets and a dark night. Eight months spent in oak barriques (casks) give it some weight and a warmly romantic quality. It is meant to be drunk young.
Like many wines with a floral quality, Les Candives will go best with a little blue cheese for bite. Dedalus offers this completely charming wine for $26.95.
Tuta 3/16/09

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