A few miles northeast of Florence, the Rufina district produces excellent Chianti.  Fattoria Selvapiana 2006 is a striking example.  Selvapiana is an ancient estate – once the summer resort of Florentine prelates.  In 1827, the Giuntini Selvapiana family bought the property.  They have stayed to make wine and olive oil for many generations.
The 2006 vendemmia (harvest) produced a very correct Chianti.  The wine smells like strawberries and new hay.  The first taste is astringent.   The fruit is well hidden, and you will want to give the wine a minute.  Or pour a second glass.  The tannins – very assertive at first – will soften to let the sun come through.  Soon the wine tastes like a tart cherry early in the year – bright, fresh fruit without much sugar.
Selvapiana 2006 is ready to drink now.  It could get a little better if you have the self-restraint to set it aside.  This is a wine made for a good dinner.  Pasta tossed with broccoli rabe, garlic, oil and a little pork chop would make a fine start.

Dedalus carries this handsome bottle for $22.50

Tuta 3/23/09