Chinon is an ancient castle in the Loire valley.   Closely associated with Henry II Plantagenet and later with Jeanne d’Arc, the sprawling stronghold looms over the river Vienne, close to its confluence with the Loire.  It is an old place — not altogether cheerful.

But we are here to consider its wine:  the Chinon cabernet franc.  Cab franc is one of the genetic forebears of cabernet sauvignon.  With merlot, petit verdot, cabernet sauvignon, and malbec, cabernet franc remains one of the principal blending wines for claret from Bordeaux, for Meritage (the California name for the same blend), and for red wines in Italy and throughout the New World.  What does cabernet franc bring to the party?  Lightness — sometimes described as finesse — and fragrance.  It is an Oscar Wilde figure among the more somber, dark-robed Bordeaux varietals.

In Bordeaux, cabernet franc is rarely allowed out by itself.  The famous wines of Château Cheval Blanc are an exception.  At about $650 a bottle for recent years, not ready to drink for a decade, Cheval Blanc offers an expensive introduction.  And it is not entirely made from cabernet franc. We have an alternative to suggest.

Charles Joguet Chinon Cuvée Terroir 2006 offers an easier way to learn the taste of pure cabernet franc.  The wine is a light red color.  On the spectrum of fruit, the taste falls in the neutral ground between dark fruit and light — free from the autocracy of “cherry” or “plum” or “cooked stone fruit.”   This wine has the appealing clarity and simplicity of a well-made table wine.  It is nimble, bright and offers a pleasing show of tannic structure.  In every respect, it is easy to like.

Dedalus will sell you the life of the party for $18.50.

Tuta 9/2/09