Here is a small mystery.  We are all looking for something special when we choose Chianti.  Glamor, of course, a certain balance, not too sweet, not too dry, a certain bella figura, a little racy, a little exotic, not too crazy – - why am I recalling those freshman dorm room conversations about girls?

We are not alone.  The Chianti district has grown from three isolated villages in 1716, Gaiole, Castellina and Radda.  Today it encompasses most of Tuscany.  Everyone is looking for something special in these wines:  high, bright Sangiovese taste, a firm tannic structure — no cheating with a soft, breathy mouth feel –and a little honest grit in the finish to remind us that this is, after all, an agricultural product.

Could I suggest an example?  Fattoria Selvapiana — don’t you love to say it? — Bucerchiale — now there’s a challenge — 2004 — ragazza, how did you grow up so fast?  This one is from Rufina, just east of Florence and a little out of fashion.  That helps with the price.

How does it taste?  Darker and richer than many Chiantis.  It has earned its Riserva label.  The taste comes from the briar end of the garden — blackberry preserve with a handful of herbs.  It’s a large wine — best with food — and never rough.  You will like it.

At Dedalus for $31.25