The perfect time of year for white Burgundy – and the Verget is so good that not only did Tuta break his quill on its behalf, but I just had to write a little something about it in my column. Read on for Tuta’s review and be sure to hit the link at the bottom of the page to read the column in the Burlington Free Press for some additional praise. -  Jason

We have lined up two white Burgundies on the counter, both from Mâcon.  One of us knew which glass was which — the other tried the two wines blind.  One is a Macon-Villages at $12.50; the other is Macon-Charnay “Le Clos Saint-Pierre” at $22.50.  Both are made by the  respected producer Verget.

Mâcon lies at the southern end of Burgundy.   It has long been known for producing reliable Chardonnay — perhaps more lyric than epic in its ambition.  The region’s most famous offering is Pouilly Fuissé.  These are serviceable table wines which exist to complement food, especially shellfish.

Both the Village and the Macon-Charnay are on the crisp end of the Chardonnay spectrum.  Side by side, the Village tasted more watery than the denser Charnay.  They were clearly cousins.  The Charnay is more assertive.  It has a pleasing taste of pine and tart pear mixed with a little soft butter.

Considered together, both wines show us a way towards the ur-taste of Chardonnay.  Things are clearer as the wine warms past the serving point.  What is the taste exactly?  Tasted warm, there is a faintly oily feel in the mouth — rich in the way that shrimp and salmon feel rich.  The taste is not lemon or grapefruit,  but acidic in the mineral-laden way that some water or earth is acidic.  Both wines show us the direction of Chardonnay past sweetness towards a taste which has qualities of fermentation and weight.  But — ne t’inquiète pas –these two excellent Macônnaise wines are easy to drink without further scrutiny or any more talk.

Verget Macon Village $12.50

Verget Macon Charnay $22.50

Tuta

Click Here To Read: Retro Burgundy – The Burlington Free Press