How does a grape strangle a dog? That question comes from discovering that one of the names for Mourvedre is `estrangle-chien’ (others are monastell and Balzac). Whatever the case, we drink it much more than we realize, in Châteauneuf-du-Pape for instance, where it blends well with Grenache. Look out too for Australian blends of Shiraz and Mourvedre. But here we have it pure (or rather, 95% here, with a touch of Grenache) from Contra Costa County, just east of the Oakland Hills, which provides a lot of sun and water, to which it adds cool coastal winds coming from the west into the central valley. Plantings are old, having escaped Phylloxera thanks to growing in deep sandy soil-and this sets ones mind to work. For once free association seems to work. `Ancient vine’ brings to mind depth, density and strength-all that is here. You will find warmth, lots of berries, and something of a knockout from any wine of this type, most of which slightly resemble Italian ripasso. But this is the best known to me. Whilst most are a little too heavy and sweet, Jade Mountain is a little rounder and smoother, more European than new world. It is perfect now that summer is ending-with any stew. And it is an astonishing bargain at: $14.95. One question for the future: will the new plantings that are underway yield something so delicious?

-J.H.

Jade Mountain Mourvedre, Contra-Costa County, Evangelho Vineyard, 2005

$14.95