The northern Rhône produces the world’s finest expression of the syrah grape.  The famous districts include Côte-Rôtie (the “burnt or roasted hillside”), St.-Joseph, and Hermitage.  These wines will put a dent in an AIG bonus.  But there is good news: just west of the Rhône river, the region known as Collines Rhodaniennes also produces marvelous syrah.  Because it is labeled ‘vin de pays’ (local wine), you can drink it without imposing debt on your grandchildren.

Yves Cuilleron Syrah 2007 Les Candives is a beautiful example.  Mmr. Cuilleron makes very grand red wines in Côte-Rôtie.  He also has vineyards close by in the granite hills of Collines Rhodaniennes.  “Candives” is the local name for the syrah grape.  This wine is restrained and smooth.   It tastes of violets and a dark night.  Eight months spent in oak barriques (casks) give it some weight and a warmly romantic quality.   It is meant to be drunk young.

Like many wines with a floral quality, Les Candives will go best with a little blue cheese for bite.  Dedalus offers this completely charming wine for $26.95.

Tuta 3/16/09

Since the time of the Cistercian monks and the Romans before them, Bierzo in the far northwest corner of Spain has produced wine from the mencia grape.  The wine is inky dark and idiosyncratic.  The grapes grow on steep hillsides in soil which is quartz and slate.  Many vines are a century old.

Pétalos 2006 is made by the Descendientes de José Palacios.  Alvaro Palacios produces the wine in small quantities in honor of his father.  His wine tastes like a meadow:  wild blueberries, damp stone, flowers, and rain. The concentrated taste of plum and berries is like a petite sirah.  The wine ages for a few months in French oak –  just long enough to add a little spice and smoke.

It is not obvious when to serve this bright fresh wine.  It has a breakfast quality, but the early hour may not be appropriate for all of us. We held off until 5:00 and drank it before dinner with a little hard cheese. It would also be a spirited choice with grilled meat sliced on a salad.

Dedalus offers this wine for $21.50.

Tuta  3/3/09